salenas.blogg.se

1. #SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT HOW TO#
2. #SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT PRO#
3. #SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT SOFTWARE#
4. #SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT ISO#
5. #SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT SERIES#

#SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT PRO#

Click on Filter>Nik Software>HDR Efex pro 2. Now go to Filter>Automate>Merge to HDR Efex Pro 2 and then select the photograph. The file size is roughly around 400 megabytes.

#SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT HOW TO#

In this article, we shall learn how to merge to HDR Efex Pro 2 using Photoshop:

#SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT SOFTWARE#

HDR Efex Pro 2 is one of the most advanced software available that helps us to enhance our photographs easily. Starting from Instagram effects to effects using simple combinations of display settings, Photoshop has enabled swift editing of photographs in very few steps. Of course having something like a arbitrary selector like in photoshop would be good, but I can’t image the math that would have to go behind supporting such a shape.Photoshop has been the key to creating beautiful effects with absolute ease these days. One gets used to it, but I can’t help but feel like a square/rectangle, octagon and triangle might be appropriate selection tools as well. It’s like dodging and burning using only a circle on a wand.

#SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT SERIES#

You end up having to really make a series of small reticles to cover specific areas. My only beef with all the Nik Software plugs is that they only support a circle to determine an area for controls. I save all that work, go back to aperture, hit option V and send that duplicate to Sharpener Pro or other plugs if need be. If you’ve ever had or been in a darkroom, the steps are exactly the same. It’s really an approach like working with large format film: you always determine your exposure and development type based on the film you want to use to render the feel you want to express.Īfter the film I then go after the brightness, contrast, and structure, followed by control points (I think of control points like the dodging and burning step in a dark room) and then apply edge burn or vignette, then the border, followed by tone (I’m a selenium fan). Agfa film for example is much softer than Kodak Tmax 100, and you want to take that into account before you make any adjustments or you’ll end up with an image that looked noting like what you adjusted prior to applying film effect. Applying the film first changes the feel of the image’s contrast significantly. There is are a range of film simulations that not only simulate grain but also simulates the film’s response curve, particularly the foot and shoulder’s curves which affect black and white rendition and how well a film holds it’s details on the low and high end of the zone system scale. The trick I use in SEP2 is that before I do anything I decide if I want to apply a film effect first. I then hit option V like Joseph recommended, and send the copy to SEP2.

#SILVER EFEX PRO 2 POLAROID EFFECT ISO#

Once I have what I like, and you can drop the saturation to 0 to see what it looks like in initial black and white if you ant to work in black and white, I send it to DFine to remove noise if the iso I used is 400+. I also do some dodging and burning in aperture to get the details I want in the image before it goes to any other plugins. I adjust the exposure to make sure that I don’t have any overblown highlights. I don’t mess around much with the moire setting since I don’t understand it well. Typically I’ll crank up the sharpness and edge all the way up particularly on landscapes. My workflow with it is to first make all the raw camera adjustments in aperture. It really feels like being in the darkroom again. The way you can take an image and apply black and white interpretations is nothing short of spectacular. From my other posts, it’s no secret that SEP2 is by far my fav plugin.